Once upon a time, the poor of England went souling, the practice of going door to door around All Souls' Day, and offering prayers for a household's dead. In return they were given a small, spiced cake. Each cake eaten was said to carry a soul a little closer to heaven. As bargains go, it was a remarkably good one for everyone involved.
Our soul cakes are a gentler descendant of that custom: soft, round, perfumed with allspice, cinnamon, and nutmeg, and studded with plump fruit. A cross pressed into each top is the traditional mark, and a pretty one. Though not cake-like at all, the texture is unlike anything else we have baked: tender, crumbly, and short, closest to a soft, mild gingerbread, and just rich enough to make you reach for a second.
They are quick to make and wonderful with a cup of tea, which makes them ideal for All Souls' Day, November 2. We baked ours at home, with raisins and a little extra salt, because we like things a little on the salty side. But they are marvelously adjustable to your own taste or the contents of your own pantry. You might even tuck a few into a tin and leave them on a neighbor's doorstep, which is, when you think about it, souling in reverse.
GOURMET FOR THE GOURMAND
Soul Cakes
Makes about 6
Ingredients
Method
- Soak the fruit. Place the currants or raisins in a small bowl and pour the hot tea over them. They should be just covered. Let them plump for 10 minutes while you prepare the dough.
- Prepare the oven. Heat the oven to 350°F (175°C) and line a baking sheet with parchment.
- Mix the dry ingredients. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, spices, and salt.
- Cream the butter and sugar. In a large bowl, beat the butter and sugar until pale and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Beat in the egg yolk.
- Bring the dough together. Add the flour mixture to the butter mixture and stir until crumbly. Drain the fruit well, pat it dry, and fold it in. Add the milk a little at a time until the dough just comes together and is soft but not sticky. For this size, about 2 teaspoons is plenty.
- Shape and mark. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and pat or roll to about ½ inch (1.25 cm) thick. Cut into 3-inch (7.5 cm) rounds, rerolling the scraps, and place on the baking sheet. Press a cross into the top of each with the back of a knife, and keep it shallow. A cross pressed too deep can split the cake into pieces as it bakes and cools.
- Bake for 15 to 18 minutes, until lightly golden at the edges. For a more crisp cake, bake a few minutes longer.
- Cool and serve. Let the cakes rest on the pan for 5 minutes, then transfer to a rack. Serve warm, with tea.
A word on the crumb
These are very short cakes, which is the old baker's word for a high proportion of butter to flour, and it gives a tender, crumbly, almost melting texture. Soul cakes are unlike most baked goods: not quite a scone, not quite a shortbread, and closest, to our taste, to a mild, soft, short gingerbread. Handle them gently, and let them rest on the pan before moving them to the rack, as they are most fragile when warm.
Notes
- No allspice? Use ⅛ tsp ground cloves and an extra ¼ tsp cinnamon in its place.
- Spicier: Increase the spices to taste, or add a pinch of ginger.
- Salty: Use salted butter, or a more generous pinch of salt.
- Storage: Soul cakes keep for several days in an airtight tin and freeze well.
Variations
- Fruit: Currants, raisins, or any chopped dried fruit, such as cranberries, apricots, or figs.
- Citrus: A little orange or lemon zest in the dough.
- Oats: Replace part of the flour with oat flour, or stir in a handful of rolled oats, for a heartier, more rustic cake.
Pair with: A strong cup of tea. Per the season, Scorpio from Magic Hour Tea goes beautifully.
